Table lamp in beaded flowers. Table lamp in beaded flowers DIY beaded lampshade
Even the most ordinary chandelier can become a designer one if you put a little effort into it. And we just invite you to familiarize yourself with the idea of changing the appearance of an old chandelier. The manufacturing process itself will take a minimum of time, and the old chandelier, already mentally sent to a landfill, will serve faithfully for many more years, and maybe even more than a dozen years. So, in this master class we suggest you do beautiful decoration for the interior with your own hands - a chandelier made of beads.
Tools and materials Time: 2 hours Difficulty: 3/10
- old chandelier;
- beads;
- glue gun with hot glue.
Step-by-step master class
Step 1: preparing the chandelier
So, first you will need the chandelier itself. If it has been with you for a very long time and has lost its appearance, then you need to sand it, carefully removing the remnants of the old paint, and paint it again. In our case, the author chose the color of a green apple - a very pleasant, soft and delicate color. And at the same time, it can hardly be called boring or boring. It will create a special atmosphere of warmth and comfort in the room.
Step 2: cover the details with beads
Well, now the fun begins - working with glue and beads. But first, you will have to buy special candles for chandeliers. The height depends on your personal preference. In general, the candles are at hand, all that remains is to reach for monofilament thread, turquoise beads and a hot glue gun.
We form a very long string of beads and thread, carefully apply silicone glue to the surface of the candle and begin to carefully wind it around. The rows of winding should fit tightly enough to each other. We do this with every candle we buy.
Step 3: Assembling the chandelier
And now the finishing touch: we install beaded candles in a suitable place on our chandelier and get ready to show off to our friends and neighbors the new designer delight in your apartment.
Such a beaded chandelier, if you buy it in a specialized store, will be very expensive, since individual handmade work is now valued, especially when it comes to interior items or jewelry. So, a little free time, interesting materials, a good master class - and your home will be transformed.
Some time ago, I decided to remake my husband’s absolutely stupid bachelor’s floor lamp, and decided to weave a beaded lampshade onto it.
Various circumstances prevented me from finishing the work earlier, but I finally did it.
I invite you to get acquainted with my updated floor lamp :)
(If anything, this is not a masterpiece at all, but it looks much better than before)
So, the floor lamp originally looked like this:
it was some kind of synthetic thread stretched over a cylindrical base, it was very dark and completely impractical, in my subjective opinion.
Fortunately, the thread was cut easily and simply, but with a couple of quick movements I cut it all to hell.
By this time, I had already purchased a kilogram of Czech transparent beads with rainbow coating. For weaving, I chose the monastery net; on one side it has no large gaps, on the other it is slightly sparse, i.e. and the density will not be too high and the consumption will not be too high, and therefore the weight will not be too high (do not forget that the weight of beads in a large volume can be very significant - glass, after all).
And the work began:
Almost finished case (I didn’t know then that I would have to tie it up).
Trying on the cover showed that it changes shape, so I had to think about what kind of base to make. The first thought was, of course, banal plexiglass. It’s funny, but it turns out it’s not so easy to buy, or rather there’s plenty of it, but specialized off-line stores don’t have thin sheets. The Internet is the power, so we found a site with a large assortment of any plastic materials. However, the purchase demonstrated that it is so rigid that it is extremely difficult to roll it up, and Google revealed that for this purpose, specialized equipment is needed, which, of course, is not available at home. Then I wrote to the company where I purchased the plexiglass sheet, and they recommended me a slightly different plastic (on the website it is called polyester), 1 mm thick. The recommended plastic really turned out to be more plastic and at the same time elastic, I without special effort I could roll it up. And if the plexiglass sheets were exactly the size that I needed to create the mold, then the polyester sheets were almost 2 times larger, i.e. I had to cut the sheet to the required size. A test on the edge showed that my tailor’s scissors cut it perfectly and easily, which made me incredibly happy, since I didn’t have to look for any additional tools for cutting. I marked the sheet and cut out the required size piece for the floor lamp.
Plastic has a protective film: milky on one side, transparent on the other, while the plastic itself is completely transparent.
Onyx, of course, is right there helping - I can’t cope without it on my own, guys!
Now the question arose of how to make holes in it - I would need to secure it to the frame. There are 2 options - drill or melt. I made my husband get a drill - no, but what?! he was on vacation at that time :))) - but that was not the case, the drill got stuck in the plastic and did not want to drill into it. The doctor said to the morgue, that means to the morgue! So we'll melt it. I took an awl and... oh, yes, I’m still doing all this only on a narrow test piece.
The testing was successful, the main thing is not to overheat the awl so that the plastic does not darken when melting and periodically remove the sticking plastic from the awl - it formed such rings at a wider angle (sorry that it’s cloudy).
Now it was time to start marking. Since I did not remove the protective film, I made markings on it with a thin permanent marker.
And here I already have holes melted all around the perimeter.
When burning, molten material flows onto the plastic and you have to remove it; it can be removed quite easily, but you need a knife and caution. Here you can see the melted circles that have been lifted and removed:
I removed the film and tied the plastic with fishing line to the frame of the floor lamp:
This photo shows the joining seam of the sheet
But here is the whole thing.
And the X moment came, which unfortunately showed that my beaded stocking was almost not long enough.
It’s a pity that it didn’t work on the first try, but it doesn’t matter, we’ll get there.
In the process of putting on and taking off, I had an accident in one place, but not critical - after all, monastery weaving is very good in that it does not fall apart thanks to the spiral passage of the fishing line, which is, as it were, duplicated. Only 3 beads fell out.
I opened the hole a little to secure the torn piece of fishing line and restored the knitting.
Here is just before tightening the line at the place where the mating is restored:
And here is the place after the cover was put on (I specially marked it with a red thread so that I would know where it was).
Well, the final chord - the floor lamp is ready!
The weight of the finished beaded “stocking” is 742 g.
Materials:
fishing line Maxximus 300 m / 2 kg
Czech beads Preciosa, 9
Typically, when entering new apartment, it is difficult to find additional funds for good repairs. And everyone wants to live in a tidy house. And if you don’t have the opportunity to change everything at once, you can gradually improve some items. For example, with the help of a beaded lampshade, the selected room will be transformed.
A selection of photos of lampshades
New life for an old lampshade
Sometimes, it is not at all necessary to throw away the frame of an old lampshade. It may well become the basis for an updated lampshade. If the base is old, it can be painted acrylic paint, she's not afraid high temperatures, and then decorate the empty space with beads.
And here your imagination is not limited: you can put ivy branches along the frame, patterns for weaving leaves into various techniques you can easily find on our website. Greenery can be interspersed with bright floral splashes.
Beaded miracles in the interior
Or you can simply, if you don’t have enough time, and you don’t want to work on beads in such detail, take a very long piece of wire, string beads on it, and gradually wrap the frame, securing the wire with several turns to the edges of the old lampshade.
And here's another one no less interesting way for those who like the old lampshade, but find it a bit boring. You can complement it with low beads hanging freely from the lampshade. If you choose the right scheme, you can even create full-fledged patterns using different colors.
And the pattern for such a pattern can be found among those intended for cross stitch.
By the way, the same method is suitable for making a full-fledged lampshade. It’s not difficult, and it looks impressive. And most importantly, the colors can be very different, from monochromatic to multi-colored. And there doesn’t always have to be a system to this; chaotically scattered shades also create a certain atmosphere of celebration, fun and joy.
You can also use sequins if you embroider any patterns on an old fabric or paper lampshade. These can be insects, flowers, any plants, and even entire fantasy paintings.
In any case, the new look of your beaded lampshade largely depends on your patience, availability of materials and willingness to invest time in it. Believe me, in the end it will pay off, because the room framed by the new product will sparkle with new colors, but it’s up to you to decide which ones.
Having seen a white table lamp without any decorations in the store, I decided to definitely buy it in order to make something unusual and beautiful out of it. And this is what came out of it:
And I did it like this...
To work you will need:
- desk lamp white with a white lampshade.
- beads of red, silver, green colors,
- beads with a diameter of about 0.3-0.4 mm or large beads of white or cream color,
- fishing line,
- wire 0.4mm,
- the thicker the wire for the base, the better,
- scissors,
- green satin ribbon.
First I wove flowers.
I collected as many beads as possible onto the wire without cutting them off the spool and made a loop.
I placed 15 beads on the resulting axis and made 1 revolution around the axis,
Finished the petal.
To do this, I collected 3 beads onto a wire, folded it in half and immediately strung a bead onto 2 wires and collected enough silver beads to get approximately the length of a petal. Next, I disconnected the wire and collected silver beads again, now comparing the length with the already collected beads. Then I strung a bead and again 3 beads. Then, holding the last 3 beads, I passed the wire into the already collected beads in the opposite direction. I did this 3 more times. It turned out 5 stamens. A light-colored bead was placed in the center of the entire structure.
To do this, I collected 1 bead on a wire, folded both wires in half and strung 7 beads on 2 wires at the same time, separated the wires again and collected beads on each one with a length equal to the length of the petal or a little more. I folded the wires again and put 1 bead on both. The result is a loop.
I disconnected the wires and put on more beads, now equal to the length of the already woven leaf. Then I passed the wire in the opposite direction, through 6 beads, leaving the outermost bead as the top of the petal. Then I collected green beads again and passed the wire through the 3rd bead from the base. The result is another loop, separated from the previous one by 2 beads. I made 5 of these loops.
This is what he looks like.
Now I took the central part (stamens) and screwed it to a thick wire, which became the base of the structure.
And then, one by one, I screwed all 7 flower petals in a circle, overlapping each other.
At the end I screwed on the sepal.
The first flower is ready.
Now you need to weave 4 more flowers using the same technique, only on each axis when weaving the petals I reduce the number of beads.
First I weave with 11 beads, then with 7, then 2 flowers with 5 beads at the base of the axis.
And on the last 3 flowers I did not add beads to the stamens. Everything else is the same as when weaving the first flower.
We also collect these flowers onto separate thick wires and use a glue gun to glue a satin ribbon around the thick wire, trying to hide all the “dirty” work. We wrap the wire with tape for about 10 cm.
But that's not all. Now you need to weave leaves from green beads.
I do everything the same as when weaving petals, only on the axis I collect 5 beads for the central leaf and 7 beads for the side ones. On each leaf we go around the axis 3 times.
Each branch with leaves will require 3 leaves. You need 4 of these branches and 3 more leaves that will not be on the branch; I finished the branch with them.
Therefore, we weave 5 leaves with 5 beads on the axis and 10 leaves with 7 beads.
Now we take a thick wire and attach the first small leaf. Glue gun And satin ribbon wrap the wire, hiding it completely. Having wound 2 centimeters of tape, we attach 2 larger leaves in pairs, and wrap the wire again.
We make 4 branches like this.
We leave 3 more leaves just like that.
Now we take the wire with the first large flower and wrap it with satin ribbon for 7-10 centimeters. It all depends on the size of the lampshade.
Again, after 7-10cm, add a little flower less than the first, and so on, alternating flowers and twigs.
Having tried the design on the lampshade and decided where the branch will end, we cut off the excess wire. And we finish winding the wire by adding single leaves.
Then thin wire carefully attach the branch to the lampshade at the top and bottom. If necessary, we “grab” the branch in 2-3 more places so that it “does not wander.”
It already turned out very beautiful, but I didn’t stop there.
And I decided to braid the lower part of the lamp with a mesh of beads. Now I took the fishing line of such a length that it would be convenient to work. I put 47 beads on the center and tightened the circle with 1 additional bead passed through both ends of the fishing line towards each other.
Then I collected 23 beads on both ends of the fishing line and again tightened the second circle with an additional bead. I continued weaving until the length of the resulting chain became equal to the circumference of the central part of the lamp.
On the diagram I drew an approximate grid pattern.
In subsequent rows I reduced the number of beads, due to the round shape of the lamp base.
Look at the diagram. It will be more clear.
