Hot melt adhesive interlining. Adhesive interlining materials for sewing. Non-woven fabric has a certain number of properties

Adhesive materials are classified as auxiliary application materials. They really help us make sewing easier and faster.

With their help, the thing receives beautiful view thanks to the clear contours of the finishing details (collars, trims, cuffs, etc.)

Without glue, it is no longer possible to sew outerwear correctly. Adhesive materials are successfully used when sewing clothes from the most delicate materials, chiffons and knitted fabrics.

And if you are just starting to master sewing, then they will become your indispensable assistants.

This article will introduce you to the types of adhesive materials used in sewing clothes at home. At the bottom of the article there is a video that will introduce you to these applied materials.

At their core, adhesive materials are polyamide glue applied to the material (non-woven fabric, knitwear, etc.) in various ways(spot, continuous), as well as with double-sided gluing and without any material at all (glue powders and cobwebs).

Using adhesive material you can

• glue the layers together (with glue web, glue powder, glue threads)
• duplicate (stabilize, strengthen) the main material

Adhesive materials do not leave stains on the surface of the material.

Gluing and duplication with adhesive materials is carried out

• using a press, steam and high temperature in production.
• And using a steam iron at home.

The temperature and time for gluing or duplicating depends on the composition and thickness of the fabrics and adhesive materials. Gluing is considered complete when all layers have completely dried and cooled.

Glue web (adhesive mesh)

Glue web is a fibrous transparent thin canvas made of randomly located polyamide threads connected to each other. Using the high temperature of an iron and steam, it melts, connecting two layers of fabric together. Therefore, it is cut out precisely according to the dimensions of the parts from the material.

Adhesive web is available in the form of canvas and tapes (click on the photo to enlarge)

Glue web used to secure seam allowances and the bottom of the product. It is successfully used for joining parts in applique and patchwork.

Self-adhesive tapes are very interesting.

Self-adhesive tapes are designed for sewing and stitching. The Prym tape is self-adhesive on one side. The tape will temporarily hold it together necessary details for stitching, and then easily, without leaving marks, removed from the fabric.

Duplicate adhesive materials

Duplicate adhesive materials are produced by applying glue to auxiliary materials such as non-woven fabric, loose fabric, or thin knitted fabric.

Duplication is the connection of parts of collars, cuffs, valves, shelves and yokes in outerwear with hot-melt adhesive pads over the entire surface of the part. These include adhesive interlinings and dublerins.

But first I will tell you about the adhesive edge, called the dolevik. This is an adhesive strip of thread-stitched interlining. The lines laid along it keep the strip from stretching.

This edge protects the edges of the sides, pockets, lapel folds, and vents from stretching when worn and helps create the required shape of the product. Applying an edge requires skill. Foreign name kantband - kantband

In products made from knitted fabrics, the edge is also glued to the place where the zipper is sewn in.

Doublerins are used to stabilize small parts of products: collars, lapels, cuffs, waistbands of skirts and trousers. And in products with lining, the yokes and even partially or completely the main details - the shelf and the back - are duplicated.

Dublerin on a woven basis for medium fabrics

Dublerin on a knitted basis

Non-woven tape for duplicating the belt in skirts and trousers

Non-woven tape "Prym", made of 60% polyester and 40% cellulose, is intended for processing belts, cuts, vents, facings and leaves. The tape is equipped with three perforated lines. Perforated tapes guarantee rational processing and an impeccable appearance of the belt. The ease of bending along the perforation line greatly facilitates processing. Non-woven fabric has proven itself well in perforated tapes. It gives the belt stability, preventing it from stretching.

For a more complete picture of adhesive materials, watch the video

In conclusion, brief information about the types of adhesive materials and fabric duplication modes

Original and affordable decoration for a T-shirt

The adhesive material can also act as a stabilizer for embroidery if a small area is being embroidered, as in my example.

In almost every, even the simplest sewing machine There are decorative stitches. They are the ones that decorate the T-shirt pocket in the photo.

Before embroidering, duplicate the pocket with one of the adhesive materials. Then the embroidery will lie flat and will not tighten the fabric (knitwear)

You can learn how to sew and cut knitted items for yourself and your family at the training “

This material, despite its apparent softness, is surprisingly stable. It does not stretch, so products lined with non-woven fabric are resistant to deformation and shrinkage.

Types of non-woven fabric

Manufacturers offer various types of non-woven fabric:

Adhesive- with a continuous adhesive surface for sealing small parts, and with a dotted one - for large ones.

Non-adhesive- rigid non-woven fabric, which is used for duplicating parts of raincoat fabrics and the like, as well as for appliqué.

Thread stitching— the material is stitched longitudinally. This increases its strength and drapability. Used for gluing small parts and their sections.

Easy tear off- used in embroidery, patchwork and appliqué to stabilize the base fabric. When work on the product is completed, the non-adhesive interlining is simply torn off by hand.

Adhesivewater-soluble can be removed by soaking the finished product in water for a few seconds.

Methods for gluing non-woven fabric

Beginning needlewomen are faced with the fact that when gluing non-woven fabric, the fabric begins to deform, waves appear on it, or the cushioning material does not stick at all. Following simple rules will help you avoid such problems.

1. Select the type of seal according to the type of fabric. For light, lightweight, viscose, wool, light cotton and lavsan, non-woven fabrics marked H-180, H-200, C-405 are suitable. A wide range of uses for stitched non-woven fabric (H-410) - from light to heavy fabrics. The densest stabilizer, E-420, is glued to velor, patent leather and artificial leather.

2. The temperature on the iron is set depending on the type of fabric and non-woven fabric. 130-150 °C - for light and heavy fabrics, and 60-85 °C when working with leather and thick non-woven fabrics. It is recommended to first try on a small piece of paper to choose optimal temperature gluing.

3. Iron preferably using a cloth. Wet the ironing iron only for gluing the stitched interlining. Sometimes the instructions advise to wet the thread seal itself. Some people use a damp cloth when working with wool, linen and cotton.

4. When ironing the interlining to the fabric, do not iron it, but move it evenly over the entire surface. Non-woven fabric N-180, N-200 and S-405 are pressed for 8 seconds, stitched - 10-12 s, and for leather - from 8-19 s. The thicker the interlining material, the longer the ironing time and the force of pressure exerted on the iron.

After gluing the interlining, the fabric should be left until it cools completely and only then continue to work on the product.

Interlining is a thin non-woven material used to add density to clothing parts. With its help, it is possible to eliminate the deformation of parts, increase the service life and wear resistance of the product. This fabric can also be used in handicrafts, construction, and medicine.

Non-woven fabric has a certain number of properties:

• can be painted white, gray, brown, black;
• has good strength;
• does not deform when wet, the type of non-woven material being removed dissolves in water;
• not subject to creasing;
• easy to interact with chemicals as varnish, paint, primer;
• refractory;
• moisture resistant;
• eco-friendly.

Non-woven fabric is quite durable and not subject to deformation under different temperature conditions. Properties endowed with adhesive fabric, determine the wide scope of its application. Non-woven fabric is used in the construction field, using it as a basis for wallpaper and other materials for finishing repair work. The non-adhesive type of non-woven fabric is used for embroidery. Thread-stitched interlining is reinforced with thin threads, which makes it resistant to deformation and adds elasticity, thus allowing it to be used to seal textured fabrics.

There is a classification of non-woven fabric, according to which the material is divided into:

• a thin and soft gasket, which is used for gluing light flowing fabrics (silk, viscose);
• denser, but at the same time soft padding for dense fabrics;
• for dense fabrics such as wool, flannel, velor;
• dense, boil-resistant fabrics.

The adhesive fabric must be selected taking into account the main fabric to which it will be glued. To choose the right interlining, you need to take several cuts different types this fabric and glue it to the main one, then evaluate the result. The adhesive that will stick best to the fabric and is less noticeable should be left for work. Various non-woven markings contain information about tolerance to washing and aggressive dry cleaning.

Interesting notes

Nonwoven is one of the most popular products from the class of paper-like non-woven lining materials made on the basis of viscose and cellulose fibers impregnated with special binders. Despite the fact that non-woven fabric seems to be a rather soft and unstable material, due to modification of the fibers and chemical cross-linking, it acquires excellent strength characteristics. It is quite resistant to tearing and abrasion.

Types of non-woven fabric

Depending on the type of fibers used that form the matrix of the product, it can be wettable, water-soluble or non-wettable. Those species that belong to the group of water-insoluble do not lose their shape even with prolonged contact with water. They do not deform and do not shrink when dry.

Today, a huge number of types of non-woven fabric are produced - this is both a non-removable material (it can have an adhesive base or be sewn on), a removable (water-soluble) material. Each of these types has many brands that differ in characteristics, that is, features, technologies that were used in the production process.

Non-woven fabric can be divided into several types:

1. Glue. It, in turn, may differ in the technology of applying the adhesive base:

• Continuous adhesive coating.
• Spot application of glue.

1. Non-adhesive interlining (tear-off).
2. Thread stitching.

Adhesive interlining

It has become widespread due to its ease of use. To attach the material to the fabric, it is enough to use an ordinary heated iron. The adhesive layer of the material is a special substance that is applied to the surface of the non-woven fabric. The coating technology may vary. It can be dotted or continuous. Accordingly, in the first option, the glue is applied in small doses and distributed evenly over the entire surface of the material. Continuous coating of non-woven glue allows you to connect it more tightly to the main fabric.

Non-adhesive tear-away interlining

As a rule, this type of material is used as an additional base on fabrics on which various embroidery is applied. It is used to ensure that the threads lie more tightly and do not spoil the fabric.

Thread-stitched interlining

This type of material is reinforced with special thin threads. It is practically not subject to deformation, as it is a durable and at the same time elastic material. Typically, thread-stitched interlining is used to add strength to textured fabrics. It does not stretch and prevents deformation of the main fabric. That is, clothes duplicated with it do not “shrink” when washed or dried. It becomes much stronger, and its service life increases several times, since the original shape of the clothing is not lost.

Application of various types of non-woven fabric

Almost all people who are involved in sewing use non-woven fabric various types. This light and weightless material is an indispensable assistant for tailors. However, each type of fabric uses its own type:

• N-180 - the thickness of the material is no more than 0.35 mm. As a rule, non-woven fabric is used with light or lightweight materials (silk, wool, viscose fabrics). Bonding time 8 seconds.
• N-200 - thickness - 0.32 mm. The material is used for gluing light cotton, viscose, lava materials. Glues in 8 minutes.
• N-410 - with sealing threads. Material thickness - 0.4 mm. Can be used with almost all fabrics. For gluing, you need to moisten the interlining. The clutch duration is 10 seconds.
• N-405 - used with silk and viscose fabrics. The width is up to 0.4 mm.
• E-420 - the material is mainly used for leather, velor and eco-leather.

Non-woven fabric is selected taking into account the type of fabric used. As a rule, in professional clothing factories the seamstress always has several types in stock. This makes it possible to choose the optimal material for a particular type of fabric. Most often, the choice of the type of non-woven fabric depends on how suitable it is for a particular material, whether it will be noticeable, and whether the base is durable. The final choice is also influenced by the resistance of the adhesive base to moisture and high temperatures.

Scope of application of non-woven fabric

Today, non-woven fabric is in great demand in many areas. His unique properties allow you to achieve excellent results, and therefore it is used as a cushioning material when sewing or embroidering clothing or its individual elements. Non-woven interlining has also found its application in the production of linings and gaskets, coatings and packaging, and other products. Selected species They are even used in medicine as a dressing material.

Where can I buy non-woven fabric

Interlining is a non-woven interlining material used in tailoring to enhance the details of the cut. It allows you to increase the strength and wear resistance of the product, avoid deformation of parts, and helps to implement complex design solutions. They cannot do without non-woven fabric either in the production of heavy outerwear or when sewing thin summer models.

Description of non-woven fabric

Non-woven fabric is based on artificial cellulose fibers, so it is often compared to paper. To increase the durability of the material, many manufacturers add to the composition.

Most often, lining fabric has a white or milky tint, but it can also be painted in other, even bright, colors. The tone is selected in combination with the color of the fabric that needs to be duplicated.

Depending on the application, the paper layer can be very thin and absolutely weightless for light materials and dense, like cardboard, to reinforce parts made of heavy fabric. Thanks to non-woven fabric, those parts of clothing that are usually easily deformed during washing and wear out quickly during use become more durable and rigid, do not stretch and do not spoil the appearance.

Non-woven fabric is produced in rolls 100 meters long and 30 to 150 centimeters wide.

Scope of application

The scope of application of non-woven cushioning material is truly enormous. When purchasing clothes or other textiles, the buyer sometimes has no idea about the presence of this fabric in the product. It is used to duplicate all kinds of gaskets, edges, seams in jackets and coats; collars, belts, cuffs, pocket flaps on dresses, shirts and trousers.

You can’t do without non-woven fabric during production soft toys and all kinds of accessories. In needlework, a special type of interlining fabric is used, which has convenient markings and will easily dissolve and disappear after the first wash.

In addition to the textile industry, non-woven fabric is widely used in construction and the production of finishing materials. In addition, water-soluble interlining fabric is used in medicine as a dressing material.

Types of non-woven fabric

During the production process, the fibers from which non-woven cushioning fabric is produced are impregnated with a special adhesive composition or not. Depending on this, non-woven fabric is divided into two categories: adhesive and non-adhesive.

• Glue. Non-woven fabric made of cellulose fibers with an applied layer of glue. The adhesive composition can completely cover the surface of the fabric or be located in separate spots. If it is necessary to impart rigidity to the part, use a material with a continuous coating. In cases where the fabric must remain light and at the same time retain its shape, a spacer with a spot-applied adhesive composition is used. The adhesive pad is permanently attached to the main fabric using an iron.

• Non-adhesive. Interlining fabric, not treated with adhesive. Non-adhesive interlining is divided into tear-off and water-soluble. A feature of both types is the ability to remove the main fabric from the surface, which is why needlewomen like to use this type of padding for creative work.

For example, when embroidering using water-soluble interlining, the threads lie more tightly and evenly, the fabric does not wrinkle, and the result is an attractive and neat work. There is no need to remove the gasket, as it will spontaneously dissolve in warm water within 3-5 minutes. If you used a tear-off type of fabric, then it can be carefully separated from the base without spoiling the work.

In addition, the interlining fabric can be stitched with threads parallel to the edge of the fabric. This gives the material additional strength, and the interlining is called thread-stitched.

In the case when it is necessary to process only the edge of the product, use a non-woven edge, which is a tape 1-4 cm wide, cut from a regular fabric. The edge is very convenient for processing the lower edges of skirts and trousers. For greater strength and elasticity, it is sometimes stitched with thread or reinforced with soutache cord. This is how a thread-stitched non-woven edge is obtained.

Advantages and disadvantages

Non-woven fabric, like all other materials, has its advantages and disadvantages. The main thing why consumers love it is its availability and low price. One meter of this material costs from 20 to 40 rubles.

Among the disadvantages, the following points should be highlighted:

• fragility - if the interlining has a low density, then it tears like paper, while high-density fabric makes the product part too rigid;
• deformation - the gasket easily wrinkles and breaks at the bends;
• low wear resistance - if the cushioning layer is not covered with material, it may collapse during operation.

Fabric selection

Depending on the fabric from which the product will be made, the type of non-woven pad is selected. Usually an experienced craftsman keeps several types of this material in stock. To determine best option, it is enough to apply strips cut from different types of interlining fabric onto a small piece of main material, iron them and compare the results. More suitable would be the non-woven fabric that is completely invisible from front side and adheres best to fabric.

For beginning craftswomen, any pattern magazine will indicate what type of interfacing to use.

• H 180 - soft and thin padding, suitable for light fabrics:, .
• N 200 is both a soft and shape-holding gasket for.
• G405, H 410 - duplicate details of trousers made of heavy cotton and woolen fabrics. H 410 has additional threads that allow it to better hold its shape.
• F 220 - for fabrics that are resistant to boiling, for example.

In addition, you should carefully consider the labeling indicating the care requirements for products with this type of cushioning layer.

• RA - only dry cleaning possible.
• RET - normal hand and machine wash.
• PES - washing in gentle mode at water temperatures up to 40°C.

How to glue non-woven fabric

There are several simple rules that must be followed when working with cushioning material. Often, ignorance and lack of skills in gluing non-woven fabric leads to the fact that the surface of the processed part begins to wrinkle and bend, and the gasket quickly comes off. The following tips will help you avoid these troubles.

• Despite the non-woven origin of the gasket, the fabric should be cut along the edge, like regular fabric.
• Before work, you need to check the strength, exposure time and temperature of the iron at which gluing will occur in the best possible way. Moreover, the temperature of the iron should be oriented towards the more sensitive of the fabrics involved in the connection. That is, when duplicating silk, you need to set the temperature regulator to “silk”. In the case when it is necessary to reinforce a woolen part with non-woven material, set the average temperature, otherwise the gasket may be deformed.
• To avoid damage to the main fabric and the surface of the iron, you need to use an ironing iron - an additional layer of neutral-colored cotton material, for example, a cut. Gluing of non-woven fabric is carried out exclusively in dry mode!
• During operation, the iron should be evenly moved from one point to another, holding it in one place for 8-10 seconds, and not moving it over the surface of the material. Otherwise, the adhesive layer may stretch and bubbles and distortions will appear on the surface of the main fabric.
• After gluing the interlining, you must wait for the part to cool completely before continuing work. This will prevent premature peeling of the gasket and deformation of the element.

Low cost, ease of use and excellent quality of products make non-woven fabric an indispensable assistant in sewing clothes and making home textiles.