We sew a comfortable and feminine dress with a polo clasp. Dress pattern with polo clasp Construction of a dress polo shirt pattern

Polo pattern with long sleeve for boys 4-7 years old. Everything is the same as for adults: fastener, collar and even vents in the side seams. Sleeves with ribbed cuffs.

For sewing a polo, both thin cotton for warm days and thick knitwear for cool weather are suitable.

Material consumption is up to 1 m with a width of 1.4 m. Additionally, you will need knitted elastic (knitted 1x1 or 2x2) for the cuffs and collar and two buttons.

The pattern is given in full size without seam allowances in four sizes. Printed on a regular printer.

The pattern is sent instantly by email.

Click the button GET THE PATTERN– a few simple manipulations and the pattern appears in your email inbox. This particular method of obtaining a pattern is the most optimal today - quickly, inexpensively, without advertising and without problems. When checking your email, make sure you are at the address you provided on the website. You open the letter with the pattern, print it out on a regular printer, glue it together, cut out the desired size and the patterns are ready for cutting.

Even in exceptional cases, if any questions arise when receiving a pattern, we will not leave you and will bring the matter to its logical conclusion.

Note: First, print one sheet with a reference square of 10x10 cm. Check that its sides correspond exactly to 10 cm. Achieve this using the settings of your printer. Now you can print out all the pattern sheets and assemble them into one puzzle, according to the pattern, using narrow tape or an adhesive stick.

Before cutting out your pattern pieces, take a tape measure and compare your measurements to the pattern's measurements. Check all girths and length of the product. Determine the optimal size for yourself and cut out the pattern pieces.

CUT DETAILS

  • Shelf 1 piece with fold
  • Back 1 piece with fold
  • Sleeve 2 parts
  • Plank 2 parts
  • Collar 1 piece
  • Cuff 2 parts

SEWING

  • Process the plank on the shelf.
  • Sew shoulder seams.
  • Finish the collar and sew into the neckline.
  • Sew sleeves into armholes.
  • Stitch the sleeves and side edges to the mark, leaving areas for the vents.
  • Sew in cuffs.
  • Process the bottom of the product and the slots in the open areas of the side seams.
  • Overcast the loops, sew on the buttons.

The boy's polo is ready.

To set up printing of pattern No. 443 in A4 format, use “Test square No. 2!” The test square is located on the first sheet in the pattern file.

Dress pattern. Polo dress with a semi-fitted silhouette, mid-thigh length. Short shirt sleeve, the bottom of the sleeve is decorated with a stitched cuff. Centralstitching on a narrow placket with five buttons, length to the waist. Stand-up collar with a one-piece stand-up collar.

The length of the product in the middle of the back in size 44 for height 164-170 is 80.0 cm in finished form excluding the collar(neck is deepened by 0.5 cm).

Increase in chest 2.5 cm (in total volume 5.0 cm), increase in waist 13.0 cm (in total volume 26.0 cm), increase in hips 3.0 cm (in total volume 6.0 cm), increase to shoulder circumference 7.0 cm.

Recommended sewing material: T knitted fabric with low and medium stretch, for example, pique knitted fabric. The collar of the product can be made using a part of a ready-made knitted collar.

Fabric consumption: width 140-150cm, length of top fabric 1.30 m - 1.50 m. Fabric consumption is given with a reserve in case of errors during cutting and sewing.

Sewing difficulty level - “Intermediate”

When purchasing a pattern, a file is attached with a description of sewing and the necessary consumption of fabric, materials and accessories.

The pattern in your order will be available in two printing options:

1. For printing on A4. You need to print the pattern on a regular printer on A4 sheets, then glue the sheets together, cut out the pattern and you can sew!

2. For printing on a large format plotter.The patterns are located on a sheet measuring 60*137 cm.

A photo of a Lacoste dress is presented for a visual demonstration of pattern model No. 443 from the GRASSER design bureau.

We were inspired to create this pattern by photos from the Internet. These photos “inspired” us, because we do not pursue the goal of completely repeating what we saw: on the contrary, our goal is to create unique product. The product model may differ from the photo from the original source; the exact image of the model is shown in the technical drawing.

Maria Besshchekova 05/09/2019 11:30:22

Increase in chest 2.5 cm (in total volume 5.0 cm), increase in waist 13.0 cm (in total volume 26.0 cm), increase in hips 3.0 cm (in total volume 6.0 cm), increase to shoulder circumference 7.0 cm.
I don’t understand the increase in hips???
Overall waist 26 cm and hips 6 cm???

Administrator: Hello,
Loose fit increases are not the final volume.
Additions are included by the designer in the design of the pattern so that the product fits comfortably on the human body. The increases depend on what assortment the product belongs to (the increases for a coat are larger than for a T-shirt), as well as on the design of the model itself (in a dress model with a loose silhouette, the increases will be greater than in a tight-fitting one evening dress, for example).

Allowances are added to the measurements during construction.

For example, for this model - for size 44: the tabulated chest volume is 88, and the increase in the model is indicated as 5 cm, which means the finished product across the chest will have a volume of 93 cm.
An increase of 44 sizes at the waist and hips is also added to the table values.

Aigul Khuzhina 04/16/2019 00:37:30

The dress is very loose, for my size 44 I ordered a pattern of 42. It fit perfectly on the shoulders. I’ve reduced my waist and hips. I’m thinking of making darts on the back because it doesn’t fit my figure and sticks out like a bag. Length was right. Short dress. posted a photo https://vk.com/album-44134525_195064456?rev=1
overall it turned out beautifully. I'm happy.

Administrator: Hello, thanks for the review and for the photo! The pattern is a semi-fitting silhouette, without darts at the back, so it’s difficult to achieve a full fit at the back with this cut.
We are very glad that you are satisfied!

Elena Sadykova 07/25/2018 11:56:04

Good afternoon Please check the pattern for A4 sheets, it is impossible to print it in such a way that it can be glued together. I used your patterns before and had no such problems. The square prints 10*10 cm, and when printing sheets, the top and bottom of the sheet disappears. I tried printing on different printers.

Administrator: Elena, good afternoon!
If I understand you correctly, your frames are not printed? The fact is that some printers do not have enough space to “see” these frames; they seem to go beyond the printing area. Typically, for patterns with a test square that comes on a separate sheet, we recommend setting the scale to 95%. But, if the frames do not appear, when printing, you can set the scale to 94% (or 94.5%) - this is the “custom scale” setting. You only need to reduce the percentage a little bit and the frames will fit into the printable area of ​​your printer. With these settings, the square may end up being 9.95x9.95 instead of 10x10. Don’t be alarmed, this won’t greatly affect the correctness of the pattern. But you will have frames and it will be convenient to glue them together.

Looking at these three different dresses with a polo clasp, it's hard to imagine that they were all sewn from the same pattern!

But this is so! In addition, it is very simple to construct and model a pattern for these polo dresses, because the dresses are sewn from cotton knitwear, which softly fits the figure.

And therefore, you won’t even have to make darts!

Before you start modeling the dress, build according to your own measurements. Or build a pattern right away.

IMPORTANT! Knitwear stretches quite well in the transverse direction, which is why allowances for freedom of fit are not given when constructing the base pattern of a polo dress.


Dress pattern

Dress pattern modeling

On the dress front pattern, close the chest dart by gluing the darts on the sides.

Iron the resulting lump directly onto the paper, straightening the front pattern of the polo dress.

Move the waist dart from the front of the dress to the side (see Polo dress pattern 1).

On the polo dress front pattern, mark the clasp using forward stitches. The finished width of the fastener is 3 cm, the length is about 15 cm.

See below for detailed instructions on how to make the polo clasp.

Cut out the pattern for the back of the dress without changes. (Note: if desired, the waist dart of the back of the dress can also be removed by moving it to the side - see polo dress pattern 1).

Shorten the sleeve for a polo dress to 15 cm - setting it aside from the top point of the edge, draw a horizontal line and cut along the line.

Additionally, create a pattern for a collar for a polo dress.

Draw a rectangle ABCD.
The length of the collar AB=CD is equal to 1/2 the length of the stand.
The collar width is 8cm. The upper collar is strengthened
thermal fabric.

IMPORTANT! Before you start cutting knitwear, read the instructions for working with knitted fabrics.

Seam allowances – 0.5 cm, allowances at the bottom of the sleeves and the bottom of the dress – 3-4 cm.

How to sew a polo fastener

On the front of the dress or blouse, mark the area for the polo clasp. The width of the fastener is determined by the model and can range from 1 to 6 cm. The length of the polo clasp is also determined by the model.

Apply with chalk wrong side mark the product for the fastener as shown in drawing 1 and using a needle and thread, transfer the contours of the fastener to front side dresses or blouses.

Using stitches, transfer the middle line of the fastener and the triangle at the bottom of the fastener.

Measure the length and width of the intended polo closure on the dress.

Cut out 2 facings along the grain, the width of the facings should be 2 times the width of the fastener. The length of the facings is equal to the length of the fastener.

For facings, allow 1cm allowances on all sides.

Job description:

Place the facings along the fastener markings as shown in pattern drawing 2.

Baste the facings along vertical lines and stitch exactly according to the fastener markings. Sew from the wrong side of the product according to the markings.

Cut the fastener along the middle line and not reaching the bottom 1.5 cm - diagonally to the lines. Don't damage the facings!

Place seam allowances on the facing, fold the facing in half to the width of the fastener along the markings, tuck the seam allowances on the other side of the facing and baste.

Sew facings along the edges. If desired, you can stitch the facings on the other side.

Place one facing over the other, tucking the bottom edge to the wrong side and also turning the triangle over to the wrong side of the dress. Iron.

From the wrong side, sew a stitch along the base of the triangle, attaching both facings.

Cut off the triangle and seam allowances at the bottom to 0.5 cm.

Line the bottom cut or zig zig it.

The 2 polo patterns are similar in appearance but are built to fit different sizes. The maximum polo size is 66. Sewing for both patterns is the same, so the instructions will be the same. The classic version of the material for cutting is knitwear.

Knitwear, although classic, is not men's shirt, with us it is suitable only for patterns of smaller sizes. In the pattern large sizes there is no point in using knitwear, it is built freely for reasons that, I think, are quite clear to everyone. They are used for it summer fabrics which you like most: linen, cotton, chiffon.

Polo patterns have slight differences in the design of the collar patterns, and the model for plus-size women also has a pattern for the front slit, you can see its shape for a smaller size pattern. It is better to make the collar pattern one piece, without folds, so the part will be more accurate.

Polo shirts are used for sewing sewing machine and an overlocker, on which you need to put special needles for knitwear (in the case of sewing from it) or for regular fabric.

Cutting polo parts

The polo patterns are made without seam allowances; we will add them ourselves. Add 1 cm to all cuts, 3 cm to the bottom of the sleeves and polo.

For a small size model, we will cut out the front cut strips.

We will duplicate the collars and front trims with thin interlining. We also glue a 1.5 by 1.5 cm piece of glue to the lower point of the cut.

Polo sewing technique



We transfer the dart lines from the pattern to the shelves, stitch, iron, and press the seam allowances. Tighten the slack around the darts.

Fold the back and front of the polo right sides together and sew the shoulder seams. On knitwear, elastic and thin fabrics, place a braid under the stitching. We overcast the seams and press them onto the back. Along the shoulder seams we will place a finishing stitch the width of the sewing machine foot.

There is still a difference in the processing of the front panels of the patterns. In a small polo shirt, the strips are a continuation of the neckline, the collar is connected to them, in a large polo shirt, the collar is sewn exactly into the neckline, the upper sides of the strips remain free.

The easiest way to process the planks is given in the instructions, you can use it.

We'll do the bar a little differently. Iron the inner longitudinal section of the planks inside out. We fold the parts of the strips in half lengthwise (in finished form) facing inwards and grind short sections: for a small polo at the bottom, for a large polo - at the bottom and top. We place the strips on the face of the shelves and stitch them to the front. Press the seams and press the allowances onto the placket. Along the stitching seam of the planks, we place finishing stitches to the edge. We place a triangular allowance for the bottom of the cut on the left strip, the right strip on top, lay a finishing stitch in a square, securing all layers.

We iron the bottom cut of the inside of the collar inside out and adjust it to the width of the foot. Fold the collar lengthwise, face inward, along the middle line and grind the ends. We trim the corners, cut off the allowances, iron them, turn the collar onto the face and iron them. Place the collar on the back using loose cuts and sew it into the neckline, matching the collar control marks and shoulder seams. We sew in the collar, cut the seam at the curves, remove the seam allowance inward, and secure the collar with a finishing stitch to the edge along the inside. At the ends and flap, you can stitch the collar to the width of the sewing machine foot.

We transfer control marks from the pattern to the sleeves and armholes. We sew in the sleeves with a double stitch, matching the marks, overcast and iron the allowances. Sometimes allowances are adjusted with a finishing stitch on the front and back.

We grind side seams and sleeve seams, overcast and iron on the back.

Iron the bottom of the polo and sleeves 1 cm, then 2 cm and adjust the allowances.

You can change the neckline yourself so that the strips are located exactly above each other and sew loops on them and sew buttons. Or put buttons.

The bottom of the sleeves can be finished with a facing, which is conventionally shown on the small polo sleeve pattern. Essentially it is a closed cut edging.

Chest circumference, cm

Waist circumference, cm

Difficulty level: from medium to simple, depending on the option you choose for processing the main node

Technical drawing of the model:

Description of appearance:

Shirt male model POLO, close-fitting silhouette with fastening with two loops and buttons in the front section. Stand collar. Single-seam set-in sleeve. The lower section of the sleeve is finished with a stitched cuff

When ordering a pattern you receive 3 pdf files:

  • A file with instructions for printing a pattern, containing a control square and the measurements according to which the pattern was constructed;
  • File with pattern in A4 format, for printing on a regular printer
  • File with a pattern on one large sheet - for printing on a plotter

Pattern sample:

* PRINTING ON A4 FORMAT PRINTER:

When printing patterns in A4 format, open Adobe Reader and check the "Actual size" checkbox (or uncheck "Fit to page size") in the print settings.

Note the test square (or grid) on the pattern sheet. Its size is exactly 10 by 10 cm. It is needed in order to understand whether the printing scale is set correctly on your printer. Before printing the entire pattern, print out a sheet with a red square and measure it. 10cm sides? This means you can print the remaining pattern sheets. If the sides are more or less than 10 cm, you need to adjust the print scale of your printer. Otherwise, the pattern will not print correctly.

After printing all the pattern pages, glue them together in the order shown: the letters (A/B/C+) indicate the column, and the numbers (01/02/03+) indicate the row. The first (top left) pattern sheet will have the number A01.

*PRINTING ON A PLOTTER:

When printing a pattern on a plotter, open the pattern file in Adobe Reader (or Foxit Reader). Click on the "File" menu item, then select "Print". Select the Poster print mode under Page Sizing and Handling. Make sure the Segment Scale field is set to 100%. Check the boxes for Cutting Marks, Shortcuts, and Split Large Pages Only.

The following designations are used on the pattern:

Parts Specification

MAIN MATERIAL

    Shelf - one piece

    Back - one piece

    Sleeve - two parts

    Cuff - two parts

    Collar – 1 piece

    Fastener facing – 1 piece


Attention! When cutting, add seam allowances: along all connecting sections of the front, back, sleeves and cuffs - 7 mm; along the lower edge of the front and back – 1.5 cm. Along the lower edge of the collar and neck – 10 mm.

The material consumption for this product is very easy to determine: the length of the product plus two sleeve lengths. Approximate material consumption for size 50 height 176 cm - about 120 cm.

Examples of layout of cut details


To make a polo, you will also need two buttons and threads in the color of the main material, as well as the thinnest hot-melt glue cushioning material, non-woven type – 15 cm.

Technological sequence of polo processing

It is best to start making a polo by processing the fastener - this is the most complex component of the product. There are many options for processing such a fastener. We will look at two main ones. The first one, in my opinion, is very simple. The second one is more difficult.


Rice. 1

Figure 1 shows in detail, step by step. first option processing fasteners with stitched strips. If you are ready to make some changes appearance fasteners from a classic polo, then:

Decide on the width of the bar (3 cm is the best option, but it all depends on your decision, maybe a little more or less);

Cut out two strips of material 18-20 cm long and two widths of the finished strip plus two cm and duplicate it with adhesive material;

To simplify processing, glue a strip of thin non-woven fabric (4.0 x 18.0 cm) to the fastener area;

Stitch and turn out the upper corners of the planks (2.0-2.5 cm from the fold);

Cut out a U-shaped fastener reinforcement from the remaining material, it is shown in the figure gray(the width of the sides of the amplifier is 2.5 - 3.0 cm);

Mark the width of the finished strip on the shelf. Baste and stitch the strips to the shelf so that between the lines there is a distance equal to the width of the finished strip. Before stitching the strip, place a reinforcement on the wrong side of the shelf;

Cut the flange between the lines and turn the seam allowances for attaching the strips to the wrong side;

Overcast the side and bottom edges of the seam allowances, catching the edges of the reinforcement;

You can add a finishing stitch underneath the slats, as shown in the technical drawing.

Second option (Fig. 2)

Mark the left edge of the fastener on the shelf. It should be shifted from midline shelves the width of the bottom bar in finished form;

Glue the strip adhesive material from the wrong side;

On the facing, mark a line for the left edge of the fastener and a line for the right edge of the fastener, or simply divide the facing into three parts. The right side is 1/3, and the left is 2/3;

Place the facing on the front side with the wrong side up, aligning the chalk lines. Right side 1/3, left 2/3;

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