Cut a straight dress. Construction of a blouse without darts. Construction of the front of the dress

Hello, my dear blog readers. Today we will look at a very important area in the creation of clothing - base without darts, thanks to which we will learn how to cut and sew blouses, shirts, and dressing gowns. The peculiarity of clothes without darts is that there is no tight fit to the body; the absence of darts creates freedom in such models and a certain stylishness of clothing.

And, most importantly, for beginners, sewing is the first step to pattern based, which is built according to standards taken from itself.

So let's get started...

And read the section about freedom of fit increases, since we will now actively use them.

Grid construction:

Let's put point A
AT down = Dts + 1 = 38 + 1 =39;
AG down = Vprz + Pspr = 20 + 3 = 23;
TB down = Dlb = 20;
TT* to the right 1.5 cm - this is a LEFT (constant value - we set the fit on the back to be small);
Г*Г1 to the right we set aside the width of the grid = Сг3 + Increase in chest = 45.4 + 5 = 50.5;
G*G4 to the right side seam = G*G1 ÷ 2 = 25.25;
Armhole width: 1/4(Cr3 + Pg) + 1 = 1/4(45.5 + 5) + 1 = 13.6. From point G4 we put 6.8 to the right and left.

Back construction:

Back neck width - AA2 to the right = 1/3 Ssh + Pshgs = 18.2/3 + 0.55 = 6.6;

2. Back neck depth - A2A21 down = 1/3 AA2 + Pvgs = 6.6/3 +0.21 = 2.4;

3. Auxiliary points needed to construct the shoulder tilt:

from A2 to the right 9 cm. Place point 9.
From point 9 down 1.5-3 cm. We take the standard - 2 cm. Depends on the shoulders:

1.5 cm - high shoulders;
2 - standard;
3 - sloping shoulders.

4. A2P1 to the right with a downward slope - shoulder width = Шп + shoulder lengthening (can be from 1 to 6 cm) = 13.3 + 2 = 15.3;

The shoulder extension is chosen so that point P1 extends beyond point P1 by at least 0.5 cm. This is necessary for the vertical line of the armhole.

5. Auxiliary points necessary to design the armhole:

G2P3 up = G2P/3 + 2 cm up from the bottom 1/3;
Bisector from point B2 = 1/5Г2Г3 + 0.6 = 14.5 ÷5 + 0.6 = 3.5;

We connect points P1 with point P3 with a straight line. We design the armhole for the pattern. Deflection P1P3 into the drawing by 0.2 cm and under the pattern through the bisector to point G4.

6. We form the lower cut of the back perpendicular to the outlet from point H*

7. We form the side cut of the backrest PARALLEL to the outlet from point G4. Г*Г4 = Н*Н21

Front build:

T1T11 down - lowering along the waistline. It is set to wrap the breast tissue around. Depends on breast size:

0 - up to size 42 and stooped figures
0.5 - 1 - standard (44 - 50 sizes)
1.1 - 1.6 - more than size 50 (50, 52, 54)

We take 1 cm of reduction.

2. H1H11 down - lowering along the bottom line = T1T11 = 1 cm;

3. T11A11 up - position of the highest point of the front neck = Dtp - 1 cm to transfer the shoulder seam = 44.7 - 1 = 43.7;

4. A1A3 to the left - front neck width = AA2 = 6.6;

5. A11A4 down = front neck depth = A11A3+ 1 (constant value) = A11A3 + 1 = 7.6. We connect points A3 and A4 with a compass.

6. Auxiliary points necessary to construct the shoulder tilt:

from point A3 to the left 9 cm (used as a constant value)
From point 9 down 2.5-3.5 cm. The choice of value depends on the characteristics of the shoulders:

2.5 - high shoulders;
3 - standard;
3.5 - sloping shoulders.

We take 3 cm - standard.

Through points A3 and 3 we draw the shoulder tilt. At the intersection with the vertical we place point P2.

7. A3P3 to the left with a downward slope - shoulder width = A2P1 = 15.3 (from the back drawing)

8. Auxiliary points necessary to design the armhole:

P4 - perpendicular from point P5 to the front width line;
P6 = G3P4 ÷ 3. Take the bottom 1/3.
Bisector from point Г3 = 1/5 Г2Г3 = 14.5/5 = 2.9

We connect points P5 and P6. We make a 0.5 deflection inside the drawing and draw an armhole line.

9. We draw the bottom line: Г4Н21 = Г4Н22

Checking the width at the hip line:

G*G4 = B*B21, but point B21 needs to be placed on the horizontal line of the hips. We calculate the difference between the hips and chest, and add the missing value at the hip line.

Difference (P) = (Sb + Pb) - G*G1 - (52 +3) - 54 = 1 - this width is not enough at the hip line in the drawing. It should be evenly distributed along the side seams.

If the value is negative, then this is excess in the drawing and it must be evenly removed from the hip line.

B21 to the right and B2 to the left - set aside 0.5 cm, expanding the drawing along the hip line.

Align the sides of the side seam of the back and front.

For the hardworking - a bright light burns through life, for the lazy - a dim candle

Constructing a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR METHOD (for beginners)

Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewn a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for myself. And since you and I have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

THAT MEANS IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And master the wisdom of sewing using real adult patterns yourself, with your own hands and your own brains. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - new lungs method (I spent more than one week creating this lightweight method for constructing a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.

No- I won’t give you a single finished pattern!

I'm not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all types of art. Believe me, this is true.

Yes- sewing yourself is very easy and simple!

Right from scratch you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and clear memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will tell you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and clothing design.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacy of numerous lines of the design drawing. NO, I WILL NOT TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can instill fear and make a girl who doubts her own abilities really, really wants to sew a dress- But wasn't very friendly school years with geometry and drawing. Even I, who adores both of these school subjects, beat around the bush for several years, not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long will it take to draw something like this, and after all, everything must be calculated correctly and not get confused in the letters...”.

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you see a piece of it from above.))))

But - don’t be afraid - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one for you - just one- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new dress models. And it will be very easy and simple.

No confusing formulas
No confusing calculations.
And without the letter-number cobweb.

So how? Have I already alleviated some of your concerns?

I'll relax now - we won't start drawing right now. First, we'll take a nice walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know and become friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, this is a cast of your body. This is your individual imprint. Any item sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit YOUR figure perfectly.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All dress models are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is the base pattern.

I will now prove it to you with an example. Even with three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our pattern base is essentially your sheath dress (the one that fits your body perfectly). Dress made by yours pattern base, will follow all the curves your bodies. This simple sheath dress is sewn using a regular base pattern. You see, it’s like a plaster cast of a girl’s figure.

And today, having drawn the base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get a dress like this. The only thing you can change is the neckline - giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any kind) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.

That's how it works in the fashion world.

One day a fashion designer thought...“What if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping intersecting triangles (red outlines - figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? Based on a pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We women have just a lot of imagination.

By the way - since we're talking about round yoke— on this site there is already one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “What if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs over the arm.” And in the end it is born new model(photo below) – also very beautiful. And it's very simple.

You can do this too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist?

That's why I don’t want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (like “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects line X with the next point...” - ugh!).

I want to awaken you bitch. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Haven't learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any dress, even an intricately tailored one.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line serves, and why it is located exactly here and drawn this way.

After such an “educational walk” you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything, everything, everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And you will take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Business!

As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause us fear.”

So let’s go and tame this “terrible beast” - the base pattern. Let's tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and familiar simple drawing - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from the following drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simple and understandable.

And what these halves are needed for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photo black and white dress Our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. So to speak - clearly and understandably.

Yes, in the Potnovian language the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these same front and back shelves. But first, let’s take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you why each element is needed and what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real dress models.

First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: DOT And ARMHOLE.

Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, meet - PROYMA

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size armhole that suits you – when the armhole does not pull or dig into your arm.

That is, the pattern base contains acceptable minimum size armholes. You can model the armhole to your taste, in any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole is based on a pattern - These are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not cross.

Your model armhole can be as large as you like - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the darts.

BACK DARTS – shoulder dart + waist dart

In the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don’t have it either. Because for convenience and beauty, this dart is moved from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra fabric cut in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are not necessary if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself follows the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder and waist areas.

Let's get to know each other next... DARTS ON HALF FRONT

Oh, I could write a whole poem about her.

I spent a long time wondering how to explain more clearly - why it is needed and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought... and came up with an idea.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, from the front, an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress should be convex in the chest area. The dart on the front shoulder gives the dress that same bulge in the bust area. Now I’ll show you everything in pictures. How it happens.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example, this flat circle of cardboard will now become convex with the help of a dart.

And here's how a bust dart creates a bulge on the front detail

You will notice that the top of the convexity (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the bust dart, the point of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or bra cup is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress of your size in a store, which somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress with its point was directed by the tops of your chest. So the breasts did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut at the factory to suit your breast shape.

But that's not all what I want to say about the chest dart.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest dart is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. This is done for beauty. The dart on the shoulder catches the eye more, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw there from the point of view of constructing a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the armpit area. Don’t think that you need to make new drawings for this. Nope, everything is simple here - like opening a carton of milk - one minute and that’s it.

Here, in the picture below I schematically depicted transferring the bust dart from the shoulder to the side seam under the arm.

Well, do you already feel how wiser you have become in these 15 minutes?))) Or else there will be more... Let's continue our walk through the pattern and now let's get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the chest line. (It’s a beautiful dress, isn’t it? We’ll make it for you. Don’t even hesitate)

The bust line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to focus on it when drawing a base pattern because:

We know that we finish drawing the back waist dart at the bust line.
We know that we finish drawing the front waist dart not reaching 4 cm from the chest line.
We know that the shoulder dart is in the front - we finish drawing it at the chest line.
We know that the lower edges of the armholes also follow the bust line.

Well, no, of course, you don’t know that yet. I am all these simple rules I'll give it to you when we start drawing. And now I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of a pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letter-number dots).

As you can see, there’s a lot of everything!! Therefore, go ahead - study, sew and enjoy life)))

WHAT TO DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASE? - you ask

And we will start sewing according to the base pattern of the TOP. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You might ask, “Hey, why not just dresses?” I give the answer to this question in the first article of the series. So to be continued)))

Happy sewing!

The sweltering heat hangs over the city, and standing in front of your closet in the morning, you understand: the question of what to wear gives way to the desire to take something off. And yet, clothes that keep you cool in summer exist. These are flying dresses loose fit: The less fabric in contact with your skin, the cooler it will be.

Straight, loose-fitting dresses without darts are one of this summer's finds. Choose bright neon knitwear if you haven't had time to soak up the beach yet, or fabric in mint or blue shades - they will beautifully set off your tan.

Casual dress pattern

Since the straight knitted dress is one of the simplest, we won’t really need a pattern. You can sew a loose-fitting dress using your favorite T-shirt as a sample.

1. Fold the strip of jersey lengthwise front side inside.

2. To make a knit dress, choose a T-shirt that fits you best. Iron it and fold it along the axis of symmetry. Now place the T-shirt on the fabric so that the fold matches the fold on the fabric.

3. Attach the T-shirt to the fabric with pins and trace with chalk, allowing for a seam allowance of +1.5 cm.

4. Complete the back pattern: select the desired length and width. In our example, only 50 cm is added in the armpits, and 100 cm along the hem. That is, we add to half the back:

12.5 cm + 1.5 cm allowance = 14 cm under the arms,
25 cm + 1.5 cm allowance = 26.5 cm at the hem.

5. Draw a smooth hem line.

6. We build the front part. The work progress, increments and allowances are the same, only the neckline should be deeper.

7. Using the T-shirt sleeve as a template, create a 3/4 length sleeve pattern on the fabric.

8. In accordance with the chosen neck shape, create a neck facing pattern. You will need two pieces: one for the front, one for the back.

9. Cut out all the parts, not forgetting the allowances.

Advice. If you're not sure if you have enough fabric, first draw your patterns on tracing paper or even sheets of newspaper. This will help you avoid mistakes.

How to sew a simple summer dress

1. Fold the front and back of a loose-fitting dress right sides inward, aligning the shoulder lines. Pin together the shoulders of the dress and sew them with a knit or zigzag stitch.

2. Pin the sleeves to the front and back, aligning the axis of symmetry of the sleeve with the shoulder seam. Sew.

3. Pin the side seams from the sleeves to approximately the waistline. Sew.

4. Pin and stitch seams from waist to hem.

5. Baste and sew the facing to the neckline. Iron it so that the seams are flat.

6. Pin and hem the sleeves and hem to the desired length. This can be done manually hidden seam, “goat” or machine blind seam (see video).

Blind seam

Goat seam

Blindstitch foot

Iron the dress. Ready!

The two additional basic patterns presented here are the basis for modeling simple-shaped products and are preferable when modeling spacious products.

Basic bodice pattern without top darts used for modeling blouses, T-shirts made of elastic materials and knitwear, vests, small jackets or beach sets and home clothes. From a bodice of this design, by lengthening it, you can easily get a dress of a simple cut, which is made of knitwear or light fabric.

Basic bodice pattern without free-form darts- proportionally increased to model free-form items such as pajamas, dressing gowns, negligees, capes and wide blouses.

There are two sleeve options available for this design. The first version of the sleeve is shown in Fig. 5 - the height of its edge is reduced, due to which the sleeve automatically becomes wider. Reduced collar height and wide sleeve are the most characteristic features loose clothes. The second version of the sleeve is shown in Fig. 6 - it also has a reduced collar height and a larger width along the axillary line, which makes it look like a shirt-type sleeve.

Basic bodice pattern without top darts

The goal is to make the basic bodice pattern flatter at the top so that it is suitable for modeling spacious garments. To do this, the solutions of the shoulder dart on the back and the upper dart on the front of the bodice are transferred to the armhole of the bodice. Due to this lengthening, the armhole is transformed to design products with sleeves with a reduced collar height. Waist darts are saved in the drawing for modeling products adjacent to the figure in this area.

Note. The side line of these basic patterns should be in the middle of the underarm line to create the same width across the back and front. If you are using a basic bodice pattern built for a standard figure, then no adjustments are required, but in a basic bodice pattern built for an individual figure, check the width of the front and back along the armpit line. Divide the difference between them equally: add to the smaller part, subtract from the larger one.

Armhole control marks (Fig. 3)

1. Divide segment 1-3 in half, you get point 5, from which draw a line for the width of the back. At the intersection with the armhole, point b is obtained - the control point of the back armhole.

2. Divide segment 2-4 in half plus 2 cm. Set aside the resulting value from point 2 down, you get point 6, from which draw a line for the width of the chest. At the intersection with the armhole, point a is obtained - the control point of the front armhole.

Basic bodice pattern without free-form darts

To facilitate the modeling of volumetric products (for example, negligees, pajamas, dressing gowns), patterns basic pattern the bodice without upper darts should be enlarged so that they resemble the patterns of a wide blouse. Based on this pattern you can create model designs wide items with sleeves that create enough space for movement, and items that can be worn over other clothing if desired.

1. Place the patterns for the basic bodice pattern without the upper darts so that the underarm lines of the back and front lie on the same horizontal line. Leave a 5 cm gap between the top points of the side cuts of the patterns so that the middle cuts of the back and front of the patterns are parallel to each other, and trace the patterns.

This 5 cm gap increased the increase in fit to the bust circumference to 20 cm, which is most suitable for loose models. Draw a vertical line down from the armpit, in the middle between the parts - a new one is obtained lateral line.

2. Along the center back line, extend the pieces by 22 cm (or as required) from the waist. From the resulting point, draw a horizontal line to the center line of the front.

3. If the shoulder length is left unchanged, the product will look as if the proportions are not met.

Lengthening the shoulder line is performed as follows. Through the points of the outer ends of the shoulder sections, draw lines perpendicular to the middle lines of the back and front. Set aside 2.5 cm from these points outward along these perpendiculars and draw new shoulder lines. This method allows you to increase the length of the shoulder lines with their correct slope, which is necessary for loose models.

4. Deepening the armhole. Since the width of the parts along the axillary line has increased by 5 cm (due to the gap between the parts), it is necessary to increase the width of the parts in the armhole area to increase the three-dimensional shape of the entire structure. Lower the top point of the lateral line by 1.5 cm and label it BL.

5. Changing the shape of the armhole. Set aside 2.5 cm horizontally from the middle of the original back and front armholes outward. Draw a new armhole from the points of the outer ends of the shoulder lines to the top points of the side lines through the resulting points.

The line of the new back armhole will touch the top of the original side back line. The line of the new front armhole will intersect the axillary line at a distance of 2.5 cm from the top of the original side front line.

The control marks of the new armhole remain at the same level when transferred from the original armhole.

Sleeve for a basic bodice pattern without free-form darts

Using the same principles as the basic sleeve design, a relatively wide sleeve can be designed to fit a modified armhole. Of the values of the four dimensional characteristics necessary to construct a sleeve drawing, the values of three change:

1. Armhole length - carefully taken measurements from the basic bodice pattern without free-form darts. This value is divided by three to obtain the height of the sleeve rim. For this wide basic pattern, the sleeve cap height should be reduced by 2.5cm to accommodate the lengthening of the shoulder.

For example: Back armhole length = 24 cm

Front armhole length = 25 cm

Total armhole length = 49 cm / 3 = 16 cm - 2.5 cm = 13.5 cm - sleeve cap height (Values are rounded for convenience.)

2. Sleeve length remains unchanged.

3. Shoulder girth plus 5 cm increase in freedom of fit (as on the sleeve of the basic dress pattern) plus an additional 5 cm increase (expansion of the basic bodice pattern without free-form darts along the armpit line) plus double the amount of armhole deepening (1.5 +1.5 ).

For example: Shoulder circumference = 28 cm

Increase in looseness of fit = 5 cm

Additional expansion along the axillary line = 5 cm

Armhole recess = 1.5 cm + 1.5 cm

Total shoulder circumference = 41 cm

4. Wrist circumference plus 15 cm increase in looseness of fit is the most suitable value for this wide sleeve.

Sleeve construction sequence

Draw two mutually perpendicular lines from point 0.

0-1 = sleeve cap height = 1/3 of the back and front armhole length measured on the basic bodice pattern drawing without free-form darts minus 2.5 cm.

1-2 = arm length (this line corresponds to the center line of the sleeve and the direction of the warp thread). Draw a long horizontal line from point 2.

0-3 and 0-4 = 1/2 of the final value of the shoulder circumference - axillary line. Connect points 1-3 and 1-4 with straight auxiliary lines.

Constructing an okat line

Back of sleeve:

3-5 = 1/3 of 3-1.

6 = mid 5-1.

8 = 2 cm vertically up from point 6.

Connect the points 3-7-5-8-1 with a pattern line.

Front sleeve:

10 = mid 9-1.

11 = mid 4-9 and 1.5 cm below the guide line.

12 = 2 cm vertically up from point 10.

Connect the points 4-11-9-12-1 with a pattern line.

To determine the location of the elbow line, set aside a distance of 7-8 from point 0 along the midline of the sleeve from the drawing of the basic bodice pattern (Fig. 3).

An elbow dart is not designed for this wide sleeve, but a cut may be required to make a fastening if the sleeve has a cuff. The cut line is located in the middle between the elbow cut line and the midline of the sleeve, its length is at least 10 cm.

Constructing the bottom line

2-13 and 2-14 = 1/2 of the final wrist circumference.

Draw the bottom of the sleeve with a smooth pattern line, lowering it relative to the horizontal, passing through point 2 by 0.5 cm in the dart area and raising it by 0.5 cm in the middle of section 2-14. Check the equality of the longitudinal lines of the sleeve cuts.

Control marks for sleeve sleeving

To ensure the correct connection of the sleeve with the armhole of the product, the control marks of the armhole (see Fig. 3) are transferred to the sleeve cap.

An additional control mark is placed on the front armhole line 2 cm above point a.

Construction of a sleeve with a very small rim height

For a basic bodice pattern without free-form darts, it is important to build a sleeve design with a very small collar height, more like a sleeve men's shirts. This saves time in the design process for shirt sleeves, which would be spent converting the basic pattern of a regular sleeve into the appropriate sleeve shape.

1. Trace the first sleeve pattern for the basic bodice pattern without free-form darts (Fig. 5), including the axillary line, elbow line and midline sleeves

0-1 = greatly reduced sleeve cap height equal to 10 cm (sleeve cap height is approximately 1/5 of the armhole length).

1-2 = sleeve length.

Measure values 1-3 and 1-4 with a greatly reduced height of the rim and write the results on the template.

Draw a cuff line from point 1 to the extreme points on the axillary line that determine the width of the sleeve, using the values of perpendiculars to lines 1-3 and 1-4 indicated below.

3. Shaping the low sleeve cap

Divide line 1-3 of the back of the sleeve as follows:

3-5 = 1/3 of the value 3-1.

6 = mid 5-1.

7 = mid 3-5 and 0.5 cm below the guide line.

8 = 1.5 cm up from point 6 (see note 1).

Connect points 3-7-5-8-1 with a smooth pattern line. Divide line 1-4 of the front of the sleeve as follows:

4-9 = 1/2 of 4-1 minus 1.8 cm.

10 = mid 9-1.

11 = mid 4-9 and 1 cm below the guide line.

12 = 1.5 cm vertically up from point 10 (see note 2). Connect points 4-11-9-12-1 with a smooth pattern line.

Note 1. Sleeves with low piping should have a flatter piping line.

Note 2. These changes in the construction of the sleeve automatically reduce the amount of fit along the edge, which is important for the quality connection of such sleeves with the armhole of the product.

As a rule, every person’s wardrobe contains basic things that are not influenced by fashion. For example, a simple and versatile T-shirt. Currently, making T-shirts with unusual, cool print designs is very popular. Such T-shirts with a unique and interesting image can cheer up not only you, but also those around you.